In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury. Steve Smith's Bio <ul> <li>Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter.</li> </ul> Chapters <ul> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 17:03 Energy Systems Overview </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 24:33 Components of Energy System Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 29:56 Practical Applications of Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training </li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"> 01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training </li> </ul> Links and Resources for This Episode: <ul> <li class="p1">📝 <a title= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/energy-system-training-with-limited-resources/" href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/energy-system-training-with-limited-resources/">Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast</a></li> <li class="p1"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/EST-Climbing.pdf"> 📥 Energy Systems Training Downloadable Resource</a></li> <li class="p1">🎥 <a href="https://youtu.be/WRWq_wOc5Kc">Video YouTube Podcast Episode</a></li> </ul> Social Media and Webpage: <ul> <li class="p1">🕸️<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/">Webpage</a> / 📸 <a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/">Instagram</a> /📍<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/">Pinterest</a> / 📝<a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/"> Blog Articles</a>: </li> </ul> Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools <ul> <li class="p1"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/">Climb Injury-Free Book</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/">Self-Help Injury Protocols</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/">Rehab Tools</a>:  /<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/">Brand Partner Discounts</a> </li> </ul> Injury Rehab Coures <ul> <li class="p2"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/">Courses for Medical Providers </a>/ <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/">Courses for Coaches</a></li> </ul>

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