SummaryIn this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis.   Takeaways <ul class="css-15jyqsb"> <li> DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint.</li> <li> Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain.</li> <li> Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises.</li> <li> Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury.</li> <li> Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms.</li> <li> Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury.</li> <li> Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation.</li> </ul> Chapters <ul> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">00:00 Introduction and Background</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">38:03 Pinch Grip Variations</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">42:08 Hangboard Recommendations</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">46:11 Returning to Climbing</li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0">48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis</li> </ul> Links and Resources for This Episode: <ul> <li class="p1">📝 <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/dipcapsulitis/">Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast</a></li> <li class="p1"><a href="https://youtu.be/GxKSZ_Ra23w">🎥 YouTube Session Recording</a></li> </ul> Social Media and Webpage: <ul> <li class="p1">🕸️<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com">Webpage</a> / 📸 <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/">Instagram</a> /📍<a href= "https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/">Pinterest</a> / 📝<a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/"> Blog Articles</a>: </li> </ul> Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools <ul> <li class="p1"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/">Climb Injury-Free Book</a> / <a style= "font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/">Self-Help Injury Protocols</a> / <a style= "font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/">Rehab Tools</a>:  /<a style= "font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/">Brand Partner Discounts</a> </li> </ul> Injury Rehab Coures <ul> <li class="p2"><a style= "font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/">Courses for Medical Providers </a>/ <a style="font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Open Sans', 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;" href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/">Courses for Coaches</a></li> </ul>

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